BUON GIORNO!
This is my first blog post. As a matter of fact, it wasn’t until about a month ago upon reading a “how to” article that I learned where the word blogging came from—web logging glided to leave off the “we”, just in case you’re anything like me. Looking at it now, I suppose I should have figured it out years ago, but one day blogging was just there and it was assumed that anyone under the age of 70 should know what it was all about. Well, I’m now in the process of learning what it’s all about.
As all of the guides tell you, a good blog should have a focus. Mine is Calabria and Italy. As you may have already noticed, I’m publishing a book on Calabria, the region that fills out the toe of the Italian boot, poised to kick Sicily. I lived there for four years, teaching English, perfecting my Italian and soaking up everything about the people and the place. Have I mentioned the wonderful food yet?
People often ask me how I came to choose a place in Italy that many haven’t ever heard of and that few have visited. And it’s not only Americans who pose the question. Italians from other regions scratch their heads when I say that I lived in Calabria. Even Calabrians themselves raise a curious eyebrow. Well, the truth is that I didn’t exactly choose Calabria. The region more or less chose me in that it offered the best option at the time I was looking for a teaching job in Italy.
My classroom in Reggio Calabria
BACKGROUND: POISED FOR A CULTURAL IMMERSION
Having studied the Italian language and culture for several years and having visited many different areas of the country, I felt ready for an immersion experience longer than the individual months I had spent on my various learning vacations in Rome, Florence, Lucca, Sorrento and Taormina. With my TEFL (Teach English as a Foreign Language) certificate in hand as well as a heap of academic credentials behind me, I didn’t think finding a job would have been all that difficult, but then again I wasn’t aware of the ins and outs of obtaining an Italian work visa. Suffice it to say, however, that there are overwhelmingly more outs than ins, and a legitimate employment offer is only the first step in a long and more often than not fruitless process of gaining legal working status in Italy.
Ironically, Calabria, a region hailed for its lack of opportunity for the local inhabitants, turned out to be the best offer I had. A few “better” schools in more northerly locales rescinded their proposals in the face of the work visa obstacles. Others were willing to take me on with low wages paid under the table, but in addition to the difficulty of covering the high cost of living, employment in the larger cities frequently came with long, uncomfortable commutes from home to work. Calabria, on the other hand, offered similarly low wages, but included an apartment within walking distance of the school. In spite of many an Italian’s warnings against embarking on such an adventure in the country’s hinterlands, it seemed like a no-brainer to me. So, armed with my 42x24x4-inch garment bag, I boarded an overnight train headed for Calabria.
Archeological site of Locri Epizephyrii
RESIDENCES IN LOCRI AND REGGIO
The train took me to Locri, a coastal town on the Ionian Sea, what would roughly correspond to the ball of the foot with respect to the Italian boot. I arrived in the fall to what seemed a quiet seaside municipality, albeit its frequent characterization as a “hotbed” of the ‘Ndrangheta, the Calabrian mafia. Two years later, I would move to Reggio, the capital of the province (also referred to as Reggio di Calabria or Reggio Calabria, distinguishing itself from Reggio Emilia in the Emilia–Romagna region). Just around the bend from Locri, Reggio lies along the Strait of Messina and faces the city of the same name on the Island of Sicily.
View of the Strait of Messina from the window of my apartment in Reggio
I taught, studied and traveled during my lengthy sojourn. I’ve always been a letter writer, or I should probably say, always was. I’m now more of an email writer. During my time in Calabria, I wrote extended emails to family and friends. Many of those initial impressions and timely observations have made their way into my book. Now, I send emails in the other direction.
WELCOME TO MY BLOG WITH MORE OF CALABRIA AND ITALY
Karen Haid, author of Calabria: The Other Italy, in Scilla
I keep in contact with many friends, follow area happenings and routinely visit. There’s always something old to revisit and something new to discover. And, to my letter, email and book writing, I’ve adding blogging!
I look forward to sharing more of Calabria and Italy with my readers. So, welcome to my blog! Please feel free to comment and come back often!
UPDATE several years later: I now organize small-group tours with my company Karen’s Travel LLC. Check out the itineraries: CALABRIA TOURS and BASILICATA TOUR – the incredible tastes and sights will leave you breathless!
Read all about the fascinating Calabrian region in my book Calabria: The Other Italy, described by Publisher’s Weekly as “an intoxicating blend of humor, joy, and reverence for this area in Italy’s deep south,” and explore Calabria’s northern neighbor in my book Basilicata: Authentic Italy, “recommended to readers who appreciate all things Italian” by the Library Journal.
Follow me on social media: Basilicata Facebook page, Calabria: The Other Italy’s Facebook page, Karen’s Instagram and Karen’s Twitter for beautiful pictures and information.
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CALABRIA: The Other Italy and BASILICATA: Authentic Italy make great gifts!
Comments 12
Karen, I love your blog…..hopefully, you remember me…a group leader for Scandinavian Seminar, now known as Road Scholar and I am still doing this yearly in Scandinavia. We had a fun training session together about 17 years ago in Amherst. If I remember correctly, you were an orchestra conductor and had lived in Alaska and Las Vegas. Your current endeavor sounds fabulous and it sounds like you are enjoying your Italian adventure. I’ve taught “English as a Second Language” informally with immigrants in our community, but don’t have any official degree other than the standard teaching credential. Stay happy and enjoy your travels, Hugs, Hazel Hilliard
Author
Thank you so much, Hazel. Of course I remember you. Was it really that long ago?? I’m glad to hear you’re still accompanying groups in Scandinavia. My most recent Road Scholar program was a few weeks ago – ” Switzerland by Rails” – beautiful!
I’m going to try and post at least every other week, so check back!
P.S. I never conducted – I’m a pianist and flutist, but you have a good memory. I was living in Florida when we met, then I lived in Alaska for a few years, then Las Vegas, although I’m in Italy at the moment. Ciao!
Love your site! Interesting, funny, informative…
I’ll be back for more!
Author
Thanks, Lisa, and welcome!
I’ve just finished reading your book, and have enjoyed it very much. When I retired from teaching at the University of California in 2002, my wife and I visited for the first time my grandparents’ home towns , Grotteria and Sanpierfedele. I’ve often thought of writing about Calabria, but now I don’t have to (except in my Memoirs for my grandchildren). You’ve covered it nicely.
I have to say that I’ve been to Italy a half dozen times, but, if we get to travel there one more time (we’re both 79), it will be to the South. Rome, Florence, Venice are filled with magnificent cultural artifacts, but the Mezzogiorno is amazing, historically, culturally, and geographically (or, should I say, geologically?)
Thanks for your book; it was a pleasure. Salvatore Allosso
Author
I’m very glad you enjoyed my book. It gives me great satisfaction to know that I’ve contributed to the awareness of the region in a positive way and that my efforts have been appreciated by my readers. Thank you so much for your message and happy traveling to the Mezzogiorno!
Karen
Hi when do we go next
Author
Tours in the spring and fall – great to have you in the group, Frank!
I’d like to read all you write about Italy, and even more about Calabria!
Author
That’s good, as most of my blogposts are about Calabria!
Salve Karen, I thoroughly enjoyed reading your book about Calabria. The UK magazine ITALIA! -Issue 210, Aug/Sept 2024 mentioned it in an article about Tropea. My microcosm observations were congruent with your detailed account of deep immersion. In October, my wife and I found our way to the paesa d’origine of Vallelonga squarely in the center of toe. My grandfather emigrated from there in the 20s. As he was not naturalized in the US, the path is open to dual citizenship which I am pursuing. We located the unoccupied house in which he left. We plan to return soon contemplating possible scenarios. One of them is securing the property for extended stays. Perhaps an extend visit will shed light on reality. One thing for sure is, I too, have a testa dura!
Thank you again for your illuminating discourse.
Dominic
Author
I’m pleased that you so enjoyed my book and that it squared with your impressions. Great you found your grandfather’s house and wish you the best for your future Calabrian experiences!