Calabria is particularly blessed with panoramas that take your breath away – mozzafiato, as they say in Italian. The Santuario di Santa Maria dell’Isola in Tropea is perhaps the most famous of them all. The particular combination of emerald-green water, white sand, blue sky and the little church on its rocky perch is irresistible.
“Where is that church?”
“It must be on the Amalfi coast.”
“No, it’s in Puglia.”
“The Cinque Terre?”
“I’d love to sip an Aperol Spritz there.”
Rest assured, you can eat, drink and even lounge on the beach with the view, but you need to go further south, to Calabria, specifically to the bump on the top of the toe before you reach the very point of the Italian boot.
HISTORY OF SANTA MARIA DELL’ISOLA
Santa Maria dell’Isola (with tourist who just didn’t want to move from this beautiful spot)
Surrounded by the Tyrrhenian Sea, the Santuario di Santa Maria dell’Isola is in the town of Tropea in the Province of Vibo Valentia. While its history is uncertain, the area is known to have come under the auspices of Basilian monks of the Eastern rite some time during the early Middle Ages. In the 11th century, the island’s religious reigns were passed to the Benedictines under guidance of the Normans. Tropea and the surrounding communities were gradually Latinized, and interestingly, the Abbey of Montecassino has held dominion over the island sanctuary for over 1,000 years.
Little of the original structure remains due to the devastating earthquakes of 1783 and 1905. Today, Santa Maria dell’Isola has become one of Calabria’s most internationally recognized symbols.
LEGEND AND FESTIVAL OF SANTA MARIA DELL’ISOLA
Tropea coastline
Was the church built by the Basilians or the Benedictines? While written records of the church’s initial construction are not known to exist, a legend associated with the Madonna fills the void.
In a period when religious icons were being destroyed, a wooden statue of the Madonna washed up on the shores of Tropea. The town’s bishop and mayor decided to set her up in a natural grotto in the rock, but she was too tall! No problem, they would saw off her legs. At the very moment the carpenter touched his saw to the wood, his arms became paralyzed and the bishop and mayor were struck dead. Following the incident, the Madonna began performing miraculous acts for the sick who came to the spot where she had been placed.
The annual Festival of Santa Maria dell’Isola is celebrated on August 15th. In keeping with the dramatic setting and popular legend, St. Mary of the Island arrives by sea, together in a boat with St. Joseph and the Baby Jesus. Out of the water, she is carried around and up the steps to the church on the shoulders of the faithful.
VISIT THE SANCTUARY OF ST. MARY OF THE ISLAND
Looking out from Tropea’s old town to the Sanctuary of Santa Maria dell’Isola on the Tyrrhenian Sea
Strolling through the center of Tropea’s old town to the balcony at the end of Corso Vittorio Emanuele (the main street) or veering to the left to reach the Piazzetta del Canone (Little Piazza of the Canon) brings the visitor to stupendous prospects of the sanctuary. Tropea’s old town sits up on a cliff, which makes the view down to the sandy white beach, crystal waters and across to the “island” all that much more striking. Cameras come out, selfies are snapped, group pictures posed. But then the traveler notices that the isola is in fact, not an island.
Back in the day, the sandstone isola was completely surrounded by water. Nature and man have altered the topography, but the name has stuck.
To visit the sanctuary from the old town, a set of steps leads down to the beach level near the Piazzetta del Canone. And then, stairs sculpted out of the rock lead up to the church with its pristine façade – almost too smooth and perfect the nearer you get, which is the end result of the previous face’s complete collapse during the seismic event of 1905.
Visitors going up the stairs of the sanctuary
Inside, the Holy Family beam down from the simple altar.
Holy Family in the Sanctuary St. Mary of the Island
An old organ looks back from up in the wooden balcony at the other end of the narrow, central aisle.
Organ loft in the Sanctuary St. Mary of the Island
Stone side walls evoke a time gone by.
Old stone walls in church sanctuary
THE SANTUARIO IS A SANCTUARY
Entrance to the church is free, but access to the rooms above and to the rest of the “island” requires a modest admission. Climbing up the irregular steps to the small museum with windows facing back onto the historic center is priceless. As are the views from the church’s terrace and gardens.
View of Tropea old town from Santa Maria dell’Isola
The grounds behind the church are larger than one might expect when facing the sanctuary. The church is at the front of the little peninsula and the area behind is very pleasant, indeed. One can almost imagine a Basilian hermit contemplating whatever an early Christian might have pondered, except for the numerous signs admonishing visitors not to write on or break the plants.
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- Don’t write on plants!
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- Italian graffiti
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- Don’t break plants!
While just a stone’s throw from the hustle and bustle of Tropea’s old town, the atmosphere is completely different. You can gaze across at the historic center, seemingly impenetrable with its fortress-like buildings growing straight up from the cliff’s edge, or down to the bathers frolicking in the clear water, or out to sea, all the way to Stromboli, one of Italy’s active volcanos.
Swimming by the sanctuary
The Santuario di Santa Maria dell’Isola is a lovely city park. It’s truly Tropea’s sanctuary, so please don’t attempt to scratch your name into a prickly pear cactus pad.
View from the Sanctuary
Has your interest been piqued? Come to Calabria with me! I will show you the “other Italy.” See the full itineraries on my Calabria tour page. 
Would you like to know more about what there is to see and do in Calabria, the fascinating region in the toe of the Italian boot? Check out Calabria: The Other Italy, my non-fiction book about daily life, history, culture, art, food and society in this beautiful southern Italian region. Available in paperback and electronic versions.
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Comments 21
Absolutely on my list. Dying to visit Tropea. Lovely blog.
Author
Glad you enjoyed it. Your list is getting pretty long!
Your photos are mind blowing! I’m sold! Calabria must be crazy busy in the summer…Let’s see what it calls me there 😉
Author
Thanks! Calabria’s beaches have always been popular with Italians, and you can see why. They’re getting better known internationally, but there’s a lot of coastline so there are still many areas with plenty of elbow room.
Gorgeous! I have never seen a sign saying not to write on the plants! Too funny. I must get to Calabria at some point. Ciao, Cristina
Author
I was surprised to see the signs, too, and then with the precision of not to write on or not to break the plants. But with the tall cacti, the classic, “Non calpestare le aiuole” just wouldn’t do. (Don’t trample the flowerbeds/Keep off the grass)
I remember this beautiful spot on our visit in the summer of 1993. You mention the devastating earthquake of 1783. I know there were 6 in Calabria. My family is from Cirella di Plati, not to be confused with Cirella di Cosenza. There are stories from this village that it was relocated and renamed from its orignal, Barbitano, to Cirella. I am wondering if you have ever come across this story in your travels or research> I have researched maps at the Library of Congress and the David Ramsay Historical Collection of maps at Stanford University, and I am unable to verify this fact. The six quakes that shook Calabria since the 17th century were: c. 1638 (2),1659, 1783, 1905,1907. The earthquakes of Feb 5, 1783 through March were centered in the province of Reggio around Straits of Messina and Oppido Mamertina, 35 km from Cirella, which was destroyed. The quakes took 32,000 to 50,000 lives and destroyed 180 villages. So, I am betting that the village was destroyed, relocated, and renamed after 1783. But I have no documentation at this point for proof.
Author
I gave a quick look at Platì’s Wikipedia page in Italian, which stated that the frazione or district Cirella had previously belonged to Benestare. There’s a discrepancy of dates between the Platì and Benestare pages, the former says that Cirella became part of Platì in 1895 and the latter, in 1875. Obviously, this is 100 years after the earthquake in question, but perhaps looking closer at Benestare you might have more success. According to Wikipedia, the name Benestare may have come from Buonostare or bostarare, but in any case, at one point it was part of Motta Bubalini (today’s Bovalino Superiore). Perhaps some form of these names were passed down in the stories.
Thank you Karen. My family who states that there was another village name Barbatano comes from a book written by a Bruno Reitano regarding the history of the village and area. I have not been able to verify that this book exists in a library. Still looking, but thanks for your comment. I have posted these comments on the Calabria Facebook page. My best–
Beautiful photos Karen and great write-up!
Visited Tropea a few years back but didn’t walk onto the isla as it was wicked weather – even snowed on the way back to Cosenza!
Author
Thanks! Yes, that wind can really whip up on the coast. I wouldn’t want to drive on the A2 approaching Cosenza from the south in bad weather – yikes!
These are great pictures and you present them beautifully. They are luring me to Calabria!
Author
Thanks! You wouldn’t be the first to be lured to Calabria with photos of Tropea!
Such a lovely church! I finally visited it the last time I was in Tropea the exterior looks so grand and then inside is quite simple – I loved it! Plus the views of Tropea from the Piazza in front of the church are just stunning!
Author
The first couple of times I saw the church, it was completely covered in scaffolding. I was so surprised when I began seeing the renovated photos – changed the image entirely. There’s always something to come back for, such as the festival!
i wanna get married here
Author
Understandable, it’s a gorgeous location.
Just a quick question….We will be visiting in October this year. I noticed on Google maps, that it shows the church is “temporarily closed”. Do you happen to know if this is just for some repairs? And if so, how long will it be closed? Thank you for your beautiful photos.
Author
The church is generally open from the spring through the fall with extended hours in July and August. In the winter, you can’t count on it being open.
Calabria is beautiful. Tropea is breathtaking! We went to the church, a must see.
We also traveled to the East Coast, Davoli and Soverato. Beautiful.
Davoli is a town that I don’t think left the 60’s. Very laid back and people are very friendly.
We spent 18 days in Calabria.
I hope to go back next year.
Author
Sounds like you had a wonderful trip. Davoli has a very interesting Good Friday tradition that you can see on my YouTube video: Davoli Easter Procession.