The “Tavola Calda” – Part 1

BEFORE THE TAVOLA CALDA

My father likes to reminisce about the wonderful meals he ate while living in Rome in the 1950s. Perhaps surprisingly, one of his favorite lunches consisted of a big plate of cooked spinach on which he drizzled olive oil and squeezed a lemon. He would lap it up with several slices of a hearty, crusty bread and wash it down with a glass of white wine. It was a dish he really enjoyed and he liked the fact that in Italy spinaci al limone could be ordered, eaten, and most importantly, savored as a meal in itself. Read More

A Calabrian Tarantella

DANCING IN THE STREET

In Calabria, the tarantella always seems to be present, whether formally or informally, whenever there’s a traditional town festival or religious procession. A group of musicians with folk instruments may set up in a piazza, begin playing, and a crowd will invariably gather—young and old, toddlers flailing with their characteristic, unbridled enthusiasm, and old-timers with the sort of precise, energy-saving movements that render a confident sophistication to their execution of the dance steps. Read More

LE FRITTOLE: The Pig Boil, Calabrian Style

INVITATION TO A PIG BOIL

My introduction to le frittole came early in my time in Calabria when I was invited to a student’s house in the country to participate in the experience. I must say that I was impressed with the master of ceremonies and his wife. They were just regular people—a civil servant and schoolteacher—who as far as I was concerned, had impressive countrified skills.Read More

Christmas Eve at St. Peter's

Christmas Eve at St. Peterʼs

CHRISTMAS EVE TICKETS

Arms pinned to my sides, neck craned, strobe-like lighting accompanying a vertiginous din . . . the memory of my visit to the Sistine Chapel many summers ago. An unfortunately negative experience that featured hordes of unruly tourists and their flashing cameras left me with a less than favorable association with the Vatican. So when my friend Veronika suggested that we go to the Mass on Christmas Eve at St. Peterʼs, I hoped that this would be one ticket I wouldnʼt win.Read More